Solo Female Traveler Navigates Morocco’s Maze of Harassment and Hospitality

Dressed modestly, Erin Deborah Waks embarks on her very first solo trip to Morocco. With a good level of Arabic, she arrives in the kingdom. She says she was a victim of harassment when visiting shops in the Marrakech medina. "When I tried to ignore the unwanted advances, I was generally left alone. But when I responded by shouting - in Arabic - the attention only increased. And perhaps not as one might expect. Rather than eliciting intense anger or additional aggression, as one might expect, I was mostly greeted with expressions of total disbelief - and even marriage proposals!" she recounts in the columns of Daily Mail.

A merchant approaches her. "’Do you speak Arabic?’ a merchant in Chefchaouen politely asked me, who a few minutes earlier had been harassing me to buy a scarf from his stall. I nodded. ’Ah, well, you’re welcome!’ he replied, with a broad smile. Now, instead of negotiating prices, he seemed to want to chat with me. He asked me where I was from and what I did for a living. If I was married or had a boyfriend. What I was doing in Morocco. And why I spoke Arabic. After a few moments of back and forth, he politely asked if I was interested in marrying him." The travel editor was stunned: "I was surprised and, of course, quickly left the store. He followed me into the street, before finally giving up when I made it clear to him that I was not interested."

Deborah claims to have received similar proposals elsewhere during her trip - in the Marrakech medina, on a train between Tanger and Asilah, even on a beach in Taghazout. She confides that many travel guides, worried family members and friends who had already been there had warned her that she would be harassed in the streets and that this happened. "And despite this rather bizarre situation, I still had a very good time in Morocco - and I can’t wait to go back," she admits. The solo traveler has fallen under the spell of the Moroccan destination. "The landscape is incomparable. In a single bus ride, we went from desert plains to lush mountains. The food lived up to my expectations. I never got tired of couscous or tagine, to the point that I bought one to take home, despite its 5 kg and an entire bag - which I had to fill to the brim with bubble wrap."

Deborah also highlighted Moroccan hospitality. "As for this famous hospitality, it proved to be true. One day, as I was taking the train alone to visit a sleepy fishing village called Asilah, an old Moroccan woman took me under her wing, even offering me snacks along the way. I admit, however, that speaking to her in Arabic provoked a subtle message ’Would you like to see a photo of my grandson? He has a very good job and is looking to get married...’" She says she has nevertheless acquired several tricks and tips that have helped her feel as safe as possible. "Quieter cities like Rabat, Tetouan and Taghazout have less noisy markets so you can shop in peace. Unlike Marrakech, these places offer you the opportunity to explore the souks (markets) at your leisure, without fear of overzealous merchants or street harassment. Rabat in particular has an exceptional old town with high-quality products to discover," she adds.